The following images represent what many consider to be markers of masculinity and femininity as they are translated and refracted by lesbian individuals. Wearable articles such as leather, lace, jewelry, suits, or shoes allowed people to explore and play with expression, and feel that their sexuality was adequately represented. Photographers active during this time such as JEB (Joan Biren) and Morgan Gwenwald were able to capture these dynamics. While their work documented the lesbian community at large, butch/femme individuals were hard to miss during this period of intense cultural production.

This editorial subverts an essential component of the butch/femme community’s connection to labor and work, as it began in working-class settings, turning this lesbian picnic into a sexual and secretive escape from workday expectations.

Joan E. Biren spent much of her career documenting the lives of everyday lesbians through photography, capturing them at home and in their daily routines. Here, two women work at a mechanic shop, taking on a traditionally masculine role. Biren’s work was paramount to removing dangerous stereotypes about lesbians, especially those who present as masculine, and she provided a more tender representation than had been previously shown.

Here, two women recline on a bed. One is dressed in a suit, while the other lies beneath her and supports her, suggesting intimacy and connection.

This bar card presents a black butch dressed in a suit, looking confidently at the viewer. Masculinity as expressed by lesbians of color is often far more villianized by members of the community and those outside of it, as racism and expectations of femininity intensify repercussions.

Three black lesbians are captured at the 1977 NYC Pride March. Two wear t-shirts with the label “butch” and their “fem” companion appears between them. Pride marches were a way to express and build solidarity among LGBT groups.

Butch/femme originated from community. Friendships among and between femmes and butches have always been essential to the identity, as this was where strength grew in the fight for visibility. As these labels became more widespread, official societies and organizations formed, such as the Butch/Femme Society, which still exists today. These groups worked to host fundraisers and events that promoted lesbian health, wellness, and recreation. Butch/femme also moved into the academic world as those who had spent their younger years experimenting with the identity wrote about their involvement, reflected, and organized.

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Many lesbians did not identify with the butch or femme label; some found it to be limiting in terms of their personal expression and relationships. Alison Bechdel, a lesbian graphic artist, did not fully identify with the butch label herself, but much of her work reflects various attitudes and opinions from the community at the time. This comic shows the diverse nature of the lesbian community while acknowledging the many roles and stereotypes that exist within it.